Purpose: The purpose of this study was to determine the effectiveness of a new generation of skin care products on facial skin. This new generation of skin care product belongs to the family of nutracosmaceuticals, and highlights skin permeation technology with the intent to “feed the skin”.

Method: Six women with moderate fine lines and wrinkles, especially of the outer canthal region of the face, were selected for this study. They were between the ages of 35 and 65 years (average age: 40 years) and were free of skin and systemic disease as determined by their medical history. Each participant was asked to use two products twice a day. These products were Super C Serum and ACE Plus Cream (Conrex Pharmaceutical Corporation, Newtown Square, Pennsylvania). The duration of this study was 12 weeks. Evaluations were performed at day 0 (baseline), week 6, and week 12. The following testing occurred at each test date: (1) Photographs. A Sony digital video camera was connected to a computer for capturing and storing images. Lighting was supplied by a Mini-Cool 2000 and a reflective umbrella. All photographs were duplicated in terms of positioning, distance and lighting; (2) Silastic Castings. Silastic castings were used to make a permanent record of the topography of the skin, including fine lines and wrinkles. The skin casting technique incorporated Silflo (Flexico Ltd., Potters Bar, England) and included the left or right outer canthal region (commonly known as the “crow's feet”). Each of the castings were quantified for improvement on a scale of 0 to 3 (“0” meaning no improvement and “3” meaning marked improvement); (3) Biopsy. Two of the six participants had a 2mm skin biopsy performed on the first and the last day of the study. Slides were prepared and stained by the American Medical Laboratory and were evaluated by a dermatopathologist.

Results: The photos were evaluated for changes in skin tone and color as well as length and depth of fine lines and wrinkles. Day 0 was used as the baseline and week 12 was compared to these images. The average score was 2.3 with all subjects showing generalized reduction in skin redness and overall improvement in skin tone and reflectivity. Subsequently, the number and depth of lines and wrinkles on the silastic castings were evaluated with an average score of 1.1. Finally, 2mm punch biopsies were stained with H&E for general evaluation and with Verhoeff's stain for evaluating elastin. The H&E stained slides showed a more active granular layer and increased collagen in the dermis with more cellularity. The Verhoeff's stained slides showed increase elastin throughout the capillary dermis with a slight increase in the reticular dermis.

Conclusion: An exciting new generation of skin care products is now available. These products rely on Permeation Enhanced Technology (PET™) for skin penetrance rather than on conventional cosmaceutical agents. Based on the data generated in this study, these products lead to a reduction in the number and length of facial rhytids (as determined by photography), a decrease in pore size and fine lines (as detemined by Silastic castings), and an increase in elastin in the dermis (based on histology). It can be stated that this new generation of skin care product is effective in reducing facial lines and in increasing dermal content of elastin, leading to younger and healthier appearing skin.